Saunio Cardigan >> MaddieMadeThis.comAnother month, another completed Project #SewMyStyle!  If you’re just tuning in, Project #SewMyStyle is hosted by Alex of Bluebird Fabrics.  Each month, participants sew a different garment, and we all share our makes on the last Sunday of the month.

This month’s make was the Saunio Cardigan from Named Clothing.  You might remember that earlier this month, I was pretty hesitant to approach this piece.  It didn’t really seem like my style, and I was struggling with the fabric suggestions.  Well, I’m happy to say that I made myself proud with this finished product.

Cutting out the Saunio Cardigan

Uh, so remember how I sung the praises of the Moneta dress and its ease of PDF assembly?  That would be because I tackled it right after the Saunio.  Guys, I’ve always wondered why more people don’t nest pattern pieces — “Just put the sleeve in the skirt!” I said.  “It won’t be confusing at all!” I said.

I was wrong.

This was a puzzle and a half to put together, y’all.  I was working on a small space, so I couldn’t lay out all the pages at once, and that did not help.  It took me an annoyingly long time to put together, and I will remember that for future Named patterns.  Future self: give yourself extra time, or use a big ol’ table.

Saunio Cardigan >> MaddieMadeThis.com

I love love love the fabric that I used for my Saunio cardigan.  The olive green is another double brushed jersey from Finch Fabrics.  Seriously, I think I’m in love with it.  It’s so soft and is light yet strong.  I don’t feel like it drags at weight-bearing seams at all.  The faux leather also came from Finch Fabrics.  It’s thinner than I expected, but still feels like it has a nice body.  It also has a brushed back so that it feels nice and cozy next to your skin.  I think that these fabrics combine for a great lightweight spring jacket, which is perfect for this oddly early spring we’re having in Chicago.

Saunio Cardigan >> MaddieMadeThis.comSewing Tall Adjustments

I did make two #sewingtall adjustments.  First, I lengthened the body of the cardigan by six inches all around.  I think the Saunio cardigan is supposed to have a more cropped look, but I find that cropped things just look short on me.  I also added in, like, four inches to the sleeves.  They’re bracelet length now, which I really like.  As a ~design element~, I did not make the sleeves out of a stretch fabric.  I should have drafted two more inches into the sleeve at the wrist.  You can see my hack for the non-stretch fabric next!

Sewing the Saunio Cardigan

Well, if the Saunio cardigan is hard to trace out, its redeeming quality is that it is very easy to sew up.  Front and back facings ensure that there’s a clean finish, and there’s nothing tricky about the sleeves or anything.  I did the entire thing on my twin needles.  I’m really loving those things lately — they give such a neat look to stretch fabrics as opposed to a zig zag.

Like I mentioned above, I neglected to factor in that my sleeves were non stretch.  Instead of cutting new sleeves that had the appropriate amount of room in them (ya girl is lazy), I inserted a small jersey triangle into each seam.  The triangles were approximately 3″ on all sides, and I just seam ripped and inserted them at the wrist.  Probably not the neatest way to do it, but it worked!  I could have made them a little less wide, but I actually like the way the jersey can fold in on itself and hide in the sleeve.  The little triangles look cool, but it’s also neat that they can flip away.

Saunio Cardigan >> MaddieMadeThis.com
A look at the triangle insert in my sleeves.
Extra Things!

I also added small leather triangles to the corners of the front pieces.  Not gonna lie, this is to hide the fact that on one corner, I seam ripped a small hole into the front.  I feel like it works with the overall look of the cardigan/jacket, though, and I would definitely do it again even if I didn’t rip a hole.

Saunio Cardigan >> MaddieMadeThis.com

Lastly, I added a toggle closure to the jacket.  I talked about the leather and the closure in my inspiration post earlier in the month.  Really I wanted something a little more heavy-duty, like a buckle closure, but I didn’t feel like ordering it.  I just picked up the toggle at JoAnn.  I actually lost the female end of the closure and ended up buying another… I’m sure it’ll turn up early in March, of course.  I mentioned in my inspiration post that the front of the Saunio cardigan might need to be redrafted for a closure.  I did not add anything into the front, but I kind of wish I had.  Another two or three inches on whatever you’ve decided is your front-front might be nice.

Saunio Cardigan >> MaddieMadeThis.com

Saunio Cardigan >> MaddieMadeThis.com

Summary

Yardage needed: minimally 2 yards.

Level: Beginner

Time: approximately 2 hours.

General modifications: none!

#SewingTall modifications: Add length into the body (6″) and the sleeves (4″).