Okay, y’all. You’d better appreciate today’s post, because I had to interrupt my second watch-through of Stranger Things 2 to write it! Seriously, I’m obsessed, and I am definitely in love with Steve. No spoilers, but I didn’t love his character last season and this season he melted my heart! Anyways, why you’re really here — my Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers. I’m finally sharing this make. My to-blog list is running so behind! I made these trousers last month, and got a little wear out of them. That was before my life descended into constant pallet packing to prepare for a move (happening soooooon, we hope!). They’re definitely in the wearable muslin category here, and I’ll tell you why.
SOI Ultimate Trousers in Green Suiting
Cutting out the Ultimate Trousers
I made this pair of Ultimate Trousers in a green suiting from JoAnn Fabrics. I’m the worst about making notes on fabrics I buy in person, so I’m pretty sure it’s this bengaline suiting. It’s a nice enough fabric. While it is a little stiff and scratchy, that’s improved with some washing. It’s also just a thing about suitings, in my experience, so I’m not annoyed by it.
When it comes to sizing, though, I am a little annoyed. My most recent measurements land me pretty squarely in the size 10 based on the chart. But when I basted them together I couldn’t get them up past my hips. I’ll admit that my weight has fluctuated a bit in the months since my move, but I took those measurements for the pants! I had enough room in the seam allowances to make them wearable, but it was super disappointing to run into that problem.
Sewing the Ultimate Trousers
The Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers are a great intro pant for a new sewist. There’s no fly front, which people always find daunting (but you can do it!). Instead, the side gets an invisible zip. There are darts and a waistline facing, which I think are all very doable for a beginner.
Right off the bat, I knew I was going to have to add length. I put 4″ into these pants. I had enough for a good hem, but not as deep as I really like. In the future I might go to 5″. As a reminder, I am 5′ 11″ and all my height is in my limbs.
Real Talk on Fitting the Ultimate Trousers
Once again, I had a lot of issues fitting the pants. When I sew pants, I ALWAYS have the Closet Case pants fitting guide open. It’s seriously invaluable, with clear drawings in problem areas and quick fixes. I also usually find other reviews of the pants I’m sewing. For the Ultimate Trousers, I found Lauren’s review useful. Based on her notes, I’m pretty sure I have a J-shaped crotch too. Doesn’t that just sound so lovely? Whatever, maybe Lauren and I can be crotch twins. Minds out of the gutter people, I am totally talking in terms of pants fitting here.
You can see in the photo above and the one before that that there’s a lot of excess fabric in the crotch curve. I’m still working on getting that out, but I think it has to do with the J. My plan is to pinch it all out to the side and then adjust the pattern. That will actually affect the height of the side seams, which is okay with me. I love high waisted pants, but found the rise on these to be too high for even my taste.
Aaaaaanyways, I ended up reshaping the crotch as much as I could with the fabric having already been cut. I also ended up slimming the legs below the knee a fair amount (although too much on the left leg) and taking a small wedge out of the back. I’ve made another pair of Ultimate Trousers since then with more changes — coming someday to a blog near you — and while they fit better, they’re still not *perfect*.
I’m okay with doing the legwork (pun intended) on these pants. They’re a good fit for my non-moving work wardrobe, so I’d like to really get them to be the best they can be. And my impression is that they fit better on a lot of people right off the bat. Don’t be overwhelmed by my litany of mods!
So what’s the tl;dr version of this post? Overall, the SOI Ultimate Trousers are probably worth the time you might put into them. They’re an easy beginner pant, and a pretty flattering pattern. And someday, I’ll have the perfect pair! Plus now that I see the photos again, they don’t look as awful as I remembered them feeling. The ol’ “if you can’t see it at three yards, it isn’t really an issue” idea rings true.
Have you made Ultimate Trousers for yourself? What did you think of them?
Quick housekeeping before I release you into the wild — this weekend is a newsletter weekend! I am rather fond of my own newsletters, unsurprisingly. But I have also gotten rave reviews from one IRL friend, which I think truly speaks for itself! You can scroll to the bottom of this page to pop your name and email address in. You get the best of Instagram and blog posts (other people mostly, this ain’t just the Maddie show!), plus usually like a recipe or book recommendation or something. I’m full service, you guys. Catch you this Saturday morning in your inbox! Probably! Hopefully!