Last week I posted about my first-ever pair of Ultimate Trousers. I really wanted to hear others’ experiences with them. A lot of the reviews I read said they were easy to fit, and that was not my situation. And honestly, the responses were split. Some folks said their Ultimate Trousers fit great right out of the packet, and some said they had tons of trouble. I mentioned in my first post that I had made some fit adjustments that helped in my second pair, stretch Ultimate Trousers. Since I heard such a variety of experiences, I figured I ought to post about them sooner rather than later!
Stretch Ultimate Trousers
The major problem I had with my first pair of Ultimate Trousers was the crotch. I really struggled to get it to fit right, even after a muslin. I linked my favorite pants-fitting resource and some background information on the fit in that post, so you can head back there to read more about it. #sewingtall adjustments should be over in that too!
Fit Adjustments on the stretch Ultimate Trousers
I had altered the crotch for a J-shape adjustment in the muslin and first pair, but I definitely had a ways to go. For this pair, I worked on removing some of that nice fabric wad around the crotch. I probably should have gone ahead and made another muslin. Instead, I stood in my first pair and worked on pinching out the fabric. There was a pretty clear apex of the bulk, so I started at that point in the crotch seam. Then I followed the bulk out towards the side seams. I had at least a 2″ wedge at the side!
On the pattern piece, I took out a 1″ wedge. I did this by cutting across the pattern at the point of the bulk. It’s still flush at the crotch curve, but the top and bottom pieces on the side are overlapped by an inch. I’ll be honest — I have no idea if this is a real way to do pants adjustments. But it worked (kind of), and I didn’t have to redraw anything else, surprisingly. In retrospect, that probably means I did something wrong…
Anyways, the 1″ wedge was not enough. I will take out more next time. It probably wasn’t helpful that I used a stretch fabric, too.
Sewing Stretch Ultimate Trousers
For this pair of stretch Ultimate Trousers, I used a lovely ponte from Style Maker Fabrics. I’ve just made the mistake of heading back to her site to find a link for you, and now I want alllllll the fabrics! Michelle has really great taste in fabric, and all of her stuff is such great quality. This ponte is like buttah, friends. It turns already comfy pants into secret pajamas.
On my other pair of Ultimate Trousers, I had trouble getting them on at first. I decided to sew a 10 again, since I figured the stretch would compensate. Oh, it did. These were (and still are a little) huge on me. I had to take a lot out of the side seams and inseam to compensate. I prefer them more fitted than they’re drafted, so I probably would have anyways. But still, I have no idea what’s going on with these pants.
Anyways, the only other changes I made was to sew the facing down since it keeps riding up in my first pair. It looks more like a waistband now, although I don’t prefer it one way or the other. Plus, I eliminated the zipper because streeeeeetch. I sewed these pants entirely on my twin needle, and didn’t finish any of the seams. (As per usual.)
The SOI Ultimate Trousers are a really quick and easy sew. Once I get the fit *kisses fingers* perfect, I can see these being a really important part of my wardrobe. And I think that this pair got me closer! But I know I still have a ways to go before I’m really satisfied. What do you think of the Ultimate Trousers? I hope I’m not turning anyone off from them, because I really do like them!
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